stargate helmet animatronics

by:Marslite     2020-01-13
I made a Stargate Dutch helmet before, although I was happy with the completed project (
Especially considering the budget)
I always want to make a very good, accurate copy of the screen.
Luckily, there was a friend who happened to see my project and asked me for help in making and collecting movie props!
This note is not about how to make a full helmet, but how to make all the animations to make it move.
This is a lot more complicated than my previous version and needs to be more robust, so new construction techniques are needed.
The method presented here can be applied to any animated clothing item, and the whole head mechanism can be easily copied out for other clothing used for head movement.
While the finished helmet is a display piece, it can be worn like a movie helmet.
The helmet has a moving head and lights up the eyes (dimmable)
, Turn on the iris of the eyes and move the fan appropriately.
Everything is radio-controlled like the movie helmet.
This is a very challenging and exciting project and I am very happy to have the opportunity to participate in it.
You can see the head mechanism moving.
Test video of fan mechanism-
Here is the video to complete the animation processing
The main tool the tool is used to make this tool is my small Taig bench top lathe with milling accessories, bench top drill press and band saw.
The band saw I used was Andy\'s card.
I made a vertical stand for it so I could use it as a table saw.
I like this saw and it will go through the 1 \"thick aluminum plate, no problem.
To clean up the fiberglass and resin castings, I used the Mutian mini Sander
This is a great tool compared to manual sanding and grinding, which can save working time.
I also wired with soldering iron to make battery packs and drill bits of all sizes and 6/32 threaded tap.
MaterialsI usually buys metal from the aluminum recycling center near my home, but online metal is a good supplier.
I buy fasteners in bulk from Bolt warehouse.
This is incredibly cheaper than buying a small amount at my local hardware store.
For servo systems and mechanical parts, I used the following from the servo system2×Hitec HS-5085MG servos-
Servo system for opening and closing eye iris 3 × hitec HS-645MG servos-
Servo system s2 × hitec HS for host motion-5585MH servos-
Servo system for helmet2×actobotics 1/2 \"drill pillow block side fan mechanism-
Bearing bracket for installation of eye iris cups1 × actobotics 1/2 \"hole ball bearing hub-
Bearing bracket 1 × actobotics 1/2 servo shaft attachment for supporting head rotary servo-
Hitec servo shaft extension 1 × actobotics 1/2 \"drilling clamping hub for head rotary servo-
Clamping hub mounted on 1/2 \"servo shaft extension 2 × actobotics 1/2\" clamping hub-
Clamping hub for fixing Iris eyes 1 × actobotics 6-
32x1/4 \"ball link (12 ea/pkg)-
Head and fan servo link ball 1x6-
32 stainless steel rebar-
12 \"long threaded rod 2 × actobotics aluminum servo arm for manufacturing servo link (single)-
Heavy duty servo arm 2 × actobotics aluminum servo arm for head motion servo (dual)-
Heavy duty servo arm for fan motion servo 1 × 2-
56 ball nest linkage (pkg 6)-
Ball chain for making eye iris servo linkages1x 10-
32 threaded male end bearing-
Bearings for measuring 2x Iris holes in head and neck joints 37mm OD x 5mm thick-
I found them on the ebayelectrooper. I\'m using FlySky FS-
Channel 6 radio.
It\'s hard to buy a computer Radio for less than 60 dollars.
If you want to use Arduino for control while wearing Arduino, you can do the same!
For the eyes, I used a sparkling femtobled driver to power 2 super bright 3w high power red LED.
I use the Arduino Pro Mini to convert the radio signal to a signal that FemtoBuck can recognize.
Other materials used include light glass cloth, fiberglass resin, ProPoxy20 epoxy putty and some small high-strength magnets (
Purchased from a local hardware store)
When I opened the box with the helmet casting, my chin almost hit the floor.
My friend has a lot of screens that use Stargate, but in order to make a complete set of screen-accurate helmet castings, he lost some key items.
Luckily, when he was commissioned to restore something that was used by the original screen, he hit pay dirt and was allowed to pull the mold for a few missing items.
Some of these parts are cast from the original movie mold, and some parts are cast from the mold extracted from the movie making part.
Some of these new castings are even made by the same person who made the original movie helmet mold.
Everything has been studied and verified extensively.
Having this set of castings is like walking into the movie making shop in the early 90 s and leaving with them in hand!
The last three photos show the model of the helmet and the static version with the test paint finish.
There are fixed fans for this model to show the location, but the final version needs to have mobile fans.
The helmet I used to do had a moving fan, but the movement was not correct --
I fixed the center fan and the up and down fan moved in the opposite direction.
In the movie helmet, all fans move in the same direction while expanding and crashing.
The movie \"helmet\" is much more complicated than you think.
I \'ve always thought that movie helmets are an overall structure, but they are actually made up of a few pieces that are hinged together.
While these castings cannot be purchased, I think I will share their photos here for anyone who wants to use them as a reference for making their own helmets.
The casting quality sent to me is very good
This is one of the most beautiful replicas of props I have ever seen.
To adapt to animation, I\'m definitely a little nervous about their cutting!
But I have a lot of metal work to do before I cut them open. . . . First step-
Design and construction of head mechanism.
The design of this product is a bit similar to what I did before, except that I need to add a functional Iris to the eye, which will take up a lot of space in the head.
At the same time, I also want to improve the range of movement of the head.
The first three photos show the front head mounting plate.
The servo at the back of the board allows the head to scroll from one side to the other.
The board is cut from a 1/8 thick aluminum sheet and 6-
32 threaded screws and aluminum gaskets.
Through the mounting plate, the servo shaft extension rod with diameter of 1/2.
Connected to the opposite side of the mounting plate is a 1/2 bore bearing bracket-
This reduces the bending load of the servo system when the head is tilted.
A 1/2 clamping hub holds the servo shaft on the bearing.
There are two curved brass plates under the bearing bracket that support the Iris bearing bracket with 1/2 holes.
I cut the brass plates with a band saw and bend them into the shape of a vise.
The Iris Cup has not been installed yet.
This is a lot more complicated than my previous version.
Although the exact head of this screen is much larger than my previous low budget version, it does not have much space and it is very tricky to make everything fit.
I usually try to use as many ready-made parts as possible as this makes the build easier and the repair easier/faster because I don\'t need to rework the parts if something is damaged.
In this regard, I have used many Actobotics parts from Servocity, in which case the Iris bearing bracket, the 1/2 servo shaft extension, the 1/2 bearing bracket and the 1/2 shaft clamp.
The servo is Hitec HS-645MG.
Next, I processed the bracket for the eye iris servo.
I processed this from a piece of aluminum with the milling attachment on the bench Taig Lathe.
The servo installation is connected to the mounting plate two months ago --32 screws.
The servo system is a pair of Hitec HS-
5085 mg digital servo system.
To get the right movement from the servo system, I installed a longer heavy duty servo arm.
The original movie \"helmet\" had an iris so they had to be in it!
The first photo shows the Iris hole in the eye.
They measure 37mm OD x 5mm thick-perfect size!
Iris holes are available from China via eBay, but you can find them in USAS.
From companies like OptoSigma and Thorlabs.
The trick is to find one with the right size and I was lucky enough to find eBay because they are much cheaper than purchasing in the US.
Fully open to full off requires 90 degrees of rotation of the pin bar.
The way I designed it was the fixed pin Rod, the Iris body rotation-
It is placed in a machining Cup that rotates in the bearing installation.
I use a lathe to process the eye cup from a solid aluminum 2 \"OD round bar.
Each iris has three six in the Cup-32 set screws.
The cup has a shoulder resting on the 1/2 bearing bracket, which is fixed on the bearing with a 1/2 Actobotics clip.
Each clip has a small brass arm and a short 2-
The 56 ball linkage allows the servo to rotate the Iris Cup.
Next, I made the Iris pin holder.
These hold the lever pin in place so that the iris is turned on and off when the Iris Cup assembly rotates.
I have machined the holder from the aluminum sheet and they use 6-32 screws.
I need to move my head now.
I processed the head rotation (neck joint)
1 \"joint installation of thick aluminum plate.
The bracket is connected to four 6-6 on the forward servo 1/2 extension fixture32 screws.
The rotating joint is 10-
32 pole end, it is 6-Long-
32 bolts with machined gasket.
The swivel joint allows the head to move up and down and left and right. The 6-
Install the 32 ball rings at the bottom to connect to the servo system that moves the head assembly. The 10-
32 rod end threaded into 3/8 aluminum rod, Rod with 6-
32 fixing screws, which are fixed in place.
The collar is located at the top of the main helmet body, and the rod in the mobile collar can adjust the distance between the main body and the head casting to make the spacing just right.
Using the Actobotics servo support will install the servo system that moves the head onto the aluminum plate. The 6-
32 Ball Ring threads attached to Actobotics aluminum servo arm mounted on Hitec HS-645MG servos.
Once I put this assembly together, the servo mounting board assembly I made is a bit too wide.
If I change the servo arm and use the smaller end link, I can use the current setting as it allows me to position the servo closer but the smaller 4-
40 nylon end link has a tendency to break under high load.
I hate that things are broken so need a quick redesign.
The last photo shows the redesigned servo mounting assembly.
In order for the servo to fit in the main helmet section, I had to flip 90 degrees
Once I do this, just go.
There is a mechanically machined flat area where the Velcro plate bolts are attached to the 3/8 \"round rod and the plate is used with two 6-32 screws.
I still need to trim the servo arm at this point, but this may have to wait until the final assembly.
I want a pair of bright eyes shining through the iris.
Rated power of 3 watts per led (silly bright)
The driving board is a shining woman.
FemtoBuck is a constant current LED driver board that can accept PWM signals to dim the LED-
There is a very simple connection guide on the product page.
Next, I made a transparent plastic film lens, worn it with a Scottish liner, and added some plastic filler behind the lens to help spread the light, and then I put the lens behind the iris.
The Led is simply screwed to the 1/2 \"hub clamp that holds the Iris Cup in place.
I am very satisfied with the appearance of it.
The photo shows the full range of Iris movement.
I set up the radio to darken my eyes and eyes! Yep-
I put the Magic smoke out.
I accidentally reversed the power cord to the FemtoBuck and pumped the driver chip.
I ordered a replacement AL8805W5 chip, removed the fused chip using the hot air tool and welded the new chip in. Note to self-
Always use the polarized connector!
As soon as I got back to the company, I set about getting the RC radio receiver signal to work with FemtoBuck.
FemtoBuck is able to darken the LEDs by applying a voltage range. 5V to 2.
Its control pin is 5 v.
The problem is that the RC receiver does not output a compatible signal, so it needs to be fixed. Arduino (Pro Mini)to the rescue!
At the beginning of this project I thought I would eventually build some animations without Arduino, but this little guy managed to work there. . .
Arduino receives power and input signals from one channel of the RC receiver.
The Arduino output then connects to the input control pin on the FemtoBuck-simple!
Using this code, Arduino is able to get the output of the RC receiver and turn it into something useful --
Puint input = 2;
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