mover3d: the 3d printed, dmx controlled, desktop moving light

by:Marslite     2020-01-14
This is Mover3D.
3D printing mobile light using industry standard DMX-
512 communication protocol for lighting control.
So it can plug in any standard lighting console to create the ultimate lighting desktop toy.
Mover3D features a full RGBW blend and 180 ° pan and tilt.
This is MK1 of Mover3D.
A larger, better MK2 is in progress with 14,000 lumens (white only)
360 ° pan and tilt output with slip ring and stepping motor, but this is a great distance.
Now, here is mk1.
It is true that several printed parts are needed for this project, as well as other electronic products, to make it work.
There is a printed section on my Thingiverse page, here. Non-
The printed parts include :(2)
Servo system of standard 40mm size (Pan & Tilt).
The exact products I use have been discontinued, but these products can work properly.
Rgbw led with additional heat
SinkPanel mounting male 5-pin XLR (DMX)
Various M3 nuts and bolts for ConnectorM3 brass thread plug-ins (2)
608 breadboard BearingsAssorted wiressorted perfboard, installation of component selectronic component saraboruno (main processor)RS-
485 transceiver (DMX Reception)
5v voltage regulator transceiver (
Transceiver power adjustment)(2)
10uF 35VDC electrolytic capacitor (
Filter capacitor for 5v regulator)(4)
10 Ω 2w 5% resistance (
Power resistance for LED)(4)1KΩ .
25w 5% resistance (
Current limiting resistor of transistor)(4)
Transistor (
Power Control of LED)(3)
PCB 3 contact head (
For servo connection)
When everything is in print, putting all the electronics together is a great way to take advantage of time.
The two schematic diagrams above describe in detail all the main circuits inside this moving light.
DMX decoding circuit and rgbw led control circuit.
There is also a servo board, detailed to the next step.
Unlike the schematic suggestion, I am RS-
485 the transceiver is on the same board as the transistor array, RS-
485 chip on your own board.
This is because I ended up not using a fuzzy power regulator.
If possible, I would suggest putting everything on a board to reduce the number of wires in this case.
Anyway, the picture above shows how the part looks.
Here is an additional board, which does not include the schematic diagram.
Separation of servo.
This allows both servo systems to be powered from a set of power cables, and all servo lines can converge on a single board, greatly reducing the number of wires crammed into the base.
It\'s just 4 sets of 3 male heads welded on a small perf board.
In order to make 5v and GND tracks, 2 rows were welded all the way, and the other 2 were in the middle, so each servo received its own signal.
It is worth noting that I recommend waiting until the DMX connector is inserted into the base before soldering the wire to the base.
It doesn\'t matter if the board it connects to is smaller than the jack itself, because I can go through the holes in the DMX Jack.
As the last step before assembling the 3D printed part, the LED needs to be wired.
As shown in the figure, each anode (-)
Weld the LED to your own wire, all the cathode (+)
Welding together.
The large amount of hot glue visible in the picture is the strain relief of the wire, although the final model has a pair of zipper tie-band slots for this purpose.
The Assembly of the head requires the following parts: 3D printed parts: Head top housing, head bottom housing, LED barrel and LED flip parts: 1x 608zz ball bearings, 8x25mm bolts, M3 m3 hex nuts and 1x (Prewired)
Rgbw led first, put the \"LED barrel\" in front of the LED, then put it in front of the \"head bottom shell.
The LED and barrel are then secured in place using the \"LED clip\", 2x 25mm M3 bolts and 2x M3 hex nuts.
Use a zipper tie (Or other methods)
Fix the LED wire to the housing.
Next, place the 1x 608zz ball bearing on one side of the Assembly (
Which side is not particularly important).
Pass the LED cable through the center of the bearing because it is not possible after the head is closed.
Finally, the \"head top case\" is connected using the remaining 6x 25mm m 3 bolts and M3 hex nut \".
Assembly of forks requires the following parts: 3D printed parts: Top of fork pin, bottom of fork pin, fork, tilt servo cap, head fixing pin and 2x head lead rail hardware: 3x M3 brass threaded insert, 5x16mm bolts, 2x M3 hex nut, the first part of the fork assembly is the Assembly fork pin, which is two separate parts.
Each half should have 1 M3 brass threaded plug-in pushed in.
Depending on the tolerances of the 3D printer and its printed parts, you may or may not need to use a considerable amount of force for this.
After the two ends are fully pushed into the insert, they need to be combined into one piece.
If printed with ABS, it is possible to weld together with acetone.
If using PLA or PETG, Superglue (CA glue)will work.
After curing the adhesive used to glue the fork pin parts together, it can be inserted into the fork and the thinner end points down.
Then one of the 16mm bolts can be screwed into the pin and fixed in the fork.
Next, slide 1 of the \"head lead Rail\" part down the side with a servo cut.
The other one will be added later.
The servo is then placed in a slot made for it and fixed with 2x 16mm m 3 bolts and hex nuts.
After the servo is fixed, the \"tilt servo cap\" can be pushed to the motor and fixed with an additional 16mm bolt.
Next, slide the head into the position above the servo cap.
Then, be sure to slide the other \"head wire guide\" in place first and pass the wire from the head through the hole on the fork.
After that, the remaining M3 brass threaded plug-in can be pushed into the hole above the wire.
If you wish, you can push the final M3 brass threaded plug-in before the head is in place, but it doesn\'t matter to do so.
This step is probably the most difficult step in the whole build.
The wire passing through the 608zz bearing hole from the head must be powered through the \"head fixing pin\", which may be a tight fit if the connector on the wire is large.
It is possible to feed them through one at a time and it will become much easier.
After all the wires are fed through the head fixing pin, it can be fixed in place with the final 16mm bolts.
Assembly of the base requires the following parts: 3D printed parts: base and Pan servo straight gear hardware: 6x 12mm bolts, 3x M3 hex nuts, 1x Arduino Uno, 1x DMX connectors, first, arduino needs to be installed on the base.
As shown in the figure, it is already a very tight fit and may require you to rotate it to get it in place.
Once in place, it can be fixed with 1 of the 12mm bolts and the accompanying hex nut.
The DMX Jack can then slide into its slot and then be secured with 2 additional 12mm bolts and matching nuts.
It is now possible to plug into the servo system, and before sliding the wire into place, feed it through the cut on the holder.
Since the wire does have a certain thickness, the center bracket may bend a bit when plugged into the servo.
After the servo system has been pushed into place, it can be screwed into the bracket using 2x 12mm bolts.
Finally, the \"pan servo straight gear\" can be mounted to the top of the servo using the final 12mm bolt.
Now is a good time to plug all the remaining electronics into the base and weld the wires to the DMX connector.
I got the RS.
Connect the 485, power board and servo separator to the base with hot glue, but any form of adhesive can work. Almost there!
The following parts are required for the final step of Assembly: 3D printed parts: fork pin holder and fork straight gear hardware: 1x 16mm bolts, 4x 25mm bolts, 4x M3 hex nuts, 1x 608zz ball bearings and all previous components.
First, the \"fork straight gear\" should slide to the bottom of the fork and be fixed in place with some sort of adhesive.
If printed with ABS, it is possible to choose acetone welding or strong glue (CA glue)
If you\'re using another plastic
The 608zz bearing can then be pressed into the lid.
If the part is not tightly fitted, some strong glue needs to be applied around the edge to secure it in place.
The lid and bearing can now slide onto the fork pin to make sure half
The fork where the wire is located has a circular slit on the side.
Then fix it in place using the \"fork pin holder\" and the 16mm m 3 Bolt.
After connecting the wire to the base through the lid, the two parts can be connected together and connected with 4x25mm bolts and hex nuts.
Assembly is complete!
Run and upload the test code before straying into the real firmware, provided here.
This will move the two servo systems from 1 limit to the other, then check all the LED colors and then mix the colors.
This will allow you to confirm that pan, tilt and RGBW control all work.
This project uses the DMXSerial library created by Matthias Hertel, which is a library that makes DMX Receive (
And various other functions)
Very easy on 16 MHz Atmega power supply.
His page describes many of the other features I didn\'t make the most of, and the download of the library is on his Github and can be found here.
The code is simple.
Thanks to the DMXSerial library, all the code does is copy the DMX values and paste them into the strength values of the LED and then convert them for the servo system.
That said, you can do whatever you like with this code and can find it on my Github.
By default, the DMX address of the light is as follows: Red strength: 1 green strength: 2 blue strength: 3 white strength: 4 pan: 5 tilt: 6 by adjusting the value in the highlighted area, you can change these to whatever you like.
Once you set the address you want, or keep the default value, upload to your Arduino and the build is done!
The attached GIF shows the short test code running and what it should look like if everything is OK.
If everything is OK, you can upload the real firmware and plug it into the 5-pin DMX cable and the 12v power adapter.
Assuming you \'ve patched everything on the DMX transmitter correctly, the lights will move to whatever position you want and switch to whatever color you choose.
If the DMX is not received, the LED turns red and both servo systems move to the center.
It\'s up to you what you do with it, but don\'t go too farzealous.
This is a toy or model unit that does not emit a lot of light.
With this in mind, it is indeed a very interesting desktop toy.
Please post a make if you make one so we can all see it!
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