how to mount and wire a light bar
This particular tutorial was done on a 1998 Ford Ranger who has a custom hidden grill mounting bracket.
While you can use the attached cabling or aftermarket cabling settings that come with the kit, my Cabling Guide is completely from scratch.
I did make my plan roughly with some basic measurements to determine if this works and draw a rough 3d sketch on AutoCAD.
I will provide the plan for this project free of charge in PDF on my website.
Tools/supplies needed: the front end of the truck does need to be disassembled.
I marked the approximate position of the grill with straight edges and tape to avoid me removing or reinstalling the grill.
The Grill on this truck is secured to the top with four bolts and stuck in two clips at the bottom above the bumper.
I could have drilled two holes in the bumper, but to be honest, I don\'t like this approach.
To do this, I can give the truck a custom look, not only is the drill chrome bumper hard because the chrome plating is very hard, but it will eventually endanger the chrome plating.
Once you have penetrated the chrome, there will be rust or peeling.
Now for materials, it\'s good to order a little more than you actually need.
I went to a local metal supplier and gave them a list of the materials I needed, right here.
If you find a metal supplier or machine store, it is likely that buying this material is much cheaper than shopping in a big box or hardware store.
I have Schedule 40 1 \"diameter pipe, 1\" 90 degree bend, I will explain why I take this route in a moment, 1 1/4 \"by 1/4\" flat bar, 1/2 flat bar 1 3/16 \".
Everything needs to be cut by size.
First mark the cut with paint marks and then use the graffiti for accurate measurements.
Using an angle grinder with a cutting disc, the cutting may need to be squared with a file or grinder and a grinding disc.
For this I have used flux core mig welder which is a great project to perfect your welding skills if you are new to welding.
A sticky weld is needed first to hold everything together instead of running the beads at the back.
To help penetrate, reduce the deformation and keep the weld seam down, the welded joint is chamfer.
Drawing options will vary depending on your personal preference.
For the preparation work, wipe the pieces with wax and grease remover so that there will be no contaminants when sanding.
Depending on the type of metal used, whether it\'s paint, the manufacturer\'s oxidation, slag, or something else that might affect the final finish, you\'ll need to remove any existing coating.
I used some grinding pads and then finished with 220 sandpaper before the primer stage.
Using a hand held Sander allows me to remove any sharp edges or burrs and also use files if you wish.
Wipe these parts again using wax and grease remover to make sure they are clean and free of any contaminants.
For primer, I did explain the basic rust fix in an old video, so I\'m not going to repeat the same info here.
Using a fill primer allows you to hide light defects on the steel surface.
Steel from manufacturing may have some dents, scratches or other forms of defects, so you can hide them if you want.
Apply primer, it is important to work in a well ventilated area and put on a respirator.
Choose the color and finish of your choice and for me I will use glossy black.
The bar will remain subtle, easy to keep clean, glossy and smooth, matching the black truck.
Apply paint and it\'s hard when finish the lower side as I don\'t want to leave it until the next day.
So I ended up installing a bolt, wrapped a hard thread around the bolt, hung it up and painted it on the bottom.
Unfortunately, the diffuser does not clear the bracket that is fixed on the radiator bracket, so it needs to be notch.
I used the marker pen and the square to make a rough in this area.
Create a symmetrical cut using a square.
Next, I made a clean slice in the plastic with a heat knife.
Since the plastic is not completely square, I have to do a few tests and make adjustments accordingly.
Once satisfied, I cleaned my wound with a fine document.
About 1 vertical cut.
5 inch and the end of horizontal cutting is about 3/4 inch.
Finally, I can reinstall the plastic diffuser installed in the opposite of disassembly.
Make sure these push clips are the right seats.
Install the pipe rack with lights.
I have left light on this, just personal preference.
I used the foam package that came with the light strip to help secure it in place.
Some threads are also applied to bolts and washers.
This seems to be a more compact workspace, but it doesn\'t work worse than it does on the start-up motor.
Just be careful around the radiator and do not damage the fine.
Wiring starts completely from scratch.
While Auxbeam does provide a great wiring kit, the wiring I installed was custom made for the vehicle and matched very well with the wiring in stock, with a neat design.
If you want to add more lights to your car, it also has room for expansion.
Tools/supplies required: waterproof connections are used to help prevent water or moisture from entering the connection so that we do not fail in the future.
The installation of these wind and rain connectors requires a special ginning device.
For wiring, a line gauge diagram is required to determine what line gauge is needed.
This is based on distance and Light current.
Undersized wires can cause voltage drop and overheating, which is a risk of potential fire.
An after-sales fuse box is mounted on the stand, which is much easier than access to the vehicle\'s stock fuse box and looks cleaner than the online fuse box.
Most importantly, we have room for expansion and this box can hold up to four fuses.
For the curl connection, I have removed the plastic box and installed the Shrink tube filled with the adhesive.
Personally, I think it looks cleaner, and it will help to seal the connection if you push it to a tight wire.
Need to run wires and switches inside the cab.
For this case, I am using a switch to ground, which prevents the cab from being powered off and requires fewer wires to run.
I made a hole in the firewall with a stepped drill and then installed a rubber collar.
Remove the dashboard as needed to make sure there is enough space behind the switch.
If you don\'t have a drill bit large enough to make the switch, drilling holes in the dashboard can be a bit challenging.
I replaced it with a wood stab bit, covered the surface with tape as protection, and then cut the hole.
The Thorn did a clean-up in the plastic.
Unfortunately, it needs to be slightly larger, so I used a grinding bit to turn it on a little bit.
Main power cord, I left this to the end.
There is a Tang on the side of the battery terminal fixture to secure the bolts.
I bend them back, pop the bolts and insert the main line that powers the new fuse box.
Some vehicles do have a main power bar that can be opened under the hood, inside the cabin, or in the trunk.
This is not, so the battery is the main hook.
Once everything is done, tie up the new wire with some small zipper so it doesn\'t interfere with anything and looks clean.
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