diy simple photo/video and lighting stands

I have been trying to take better photos and videos for my project.
Recently, I \'ve tried to solve some of the problems of how to record what I\'m working on.
The tripod I currently have can only rotate left and right-
Don\'t tilt up and down.
This is a problem, because the workpiece is often placed on the table or on the ground, down when dealing with the project
Taking a photo or video of something you are making needs to face the angle.
A tripod that can be placed at any height and angle can be expensive, which is a problem for college students, especially when it only holds the camera.
Lighting has always been a problem for me.
To be honest, I just find it annoying.
Never seem to have enough light to make my camera happy!
To solve these problems, I made a camera and lighting system consisting of three parts.
The center column replaces the tripod and allows the camera to be placed at any height and angle.
The two pillars on both sides are lamps that are clamped to illuminate each side of the main body.
One drawback of this approach is portability.
It\'s not a problem for me because my photos and videos are taken in roughly the same place each time.
These are cheap and can be used by anyone taking pictures or videos!
Let\'s start! -Index -
If you are like me and have a complicated feeling of reading, please watch the video I made!
The following tools and materials are required to make the camera and lighting bracket.
I \'ve listed what I\'m using, but you can definitely replace something.
Tools: Materials: These brackets are very simple-
We just put Wood in concrete.
Wood: The first thing we have to do is cut 18-
Our 2x3 bolts are reduced by 20 inch.
I bought 8 feet long and a bit high for our stand and we need wood cut for our camera holder.
You may also want to cut some gaps at the end of your 2x3 to make it more solid on the concrete base.
Concrete: Mix Portland cement and play sand in about 2: 1 SandConcrete ratio.
Mix the powder fully together and then add water until it is thicker.
If you want to do this, grease it in a two gallon bucket and pour it into your concrete.
Push your 2x3 bolts into wet concrete and wait for the concrete to cure overnight!
It can then be removed from the bucket with enough push and pull.
This may be the most difficult part of this setup, but it is also very simple.
We have to make a ball-and-
So that our camera can turn in any direction.
The first thing to consider is the size of the ball.
We are probably 1.
25 \"diameter, is actually a doll head bought in a craft shop.
This is used to determine the side size required to hold the ball.
One side is made by doing three cuts on our left 2x3
The part we cut off at the beginning.
This leaves about 1/4 thick wood sticking out from the end.
The other end of 2x3 should be cut so that the total length is about 5 inch and drilled in the center.
This will allow the $1 spring clamp Bolt to be fixed on the back.
In this way, the camera can be connected at any height.
The other side is made of a piece of 1/4 of the fiber board scrap that I placed.
I cut out a rectangle long enough to hold the ball and fix the bolt on 2x3 using a fixture saw.
Drill holes in the center of each side and use the Dremel rotary tool to Mitter.
It helps a lot to hold the ball tightly.
Holes are also drilled so that both sides can be bolted together.
The other piece of 2x3 is cut vertically into more 2x2 with a length of about 4 \".
The ball sticks to one end and holes are drilled at the other end, allowing 1/4 of the bolts to slide through the ball and connect to the camera.
Hot glue can be added to the ball-and-
Socket joint between the ball and the socket, increase friction if necessary.
The lights I am using for my settings are not novel. They\'re clip-
According to the size you get, Home Depot\'s lights cost less than $10.
You can put any type of bulb you want inside, they can clip along your 2x3 at any height and they have a built-in ball --and-
The socket turns at different angles.
I was so excited when I found them.
Use: The light means that the robe has a position on each side of the body and the camera is in the middle.
However, I am not a lighting expert and for any given photo/video that will be made, I will basically choose whatever I think is best suited.
The best thing about this system is the ability to place lights and cameras at any height and angle.
Error: Initially I tried to use 3 diameter cardboard tubes as the base for these brackets.
The cardboard tube was given to me for free so I wanted to reuse it.
I think the support will be stable due to the weight of the concrete at the bottom.
In practice, these 3 \"bases are not wide enough to create stability in any form.
To be more stable, I tried to stick the base to the cut 2x8, but the glue was not fixed for quite a long time.
Just then I knew that I had to add more concrete to make a wider base and then use a 2 gallon barrel as a mold.
Conclusion: I have not used these quite often yet, but I am very happy with their results.
Making the ball-and-
Socket connectors run surprisingly well and do not need to be redesigned or redesigned when working for the first timecut anything. As a three-
Part of the system, I think it will do a good job and at the same time it will be much cheaper than any professional camera and lighting.
Thank you for checking my project!
Leave your thoughts, comments on anything you will change, or just say hello!
I love the reviews and they keep me motivated.
If you make it yourself, be sure to post some pictures here!